Monday, March 24, 2014

WQ Hans

 This week I got my Ford 5000 tractor project all wrapped up. I got the engine bolted up to the transmission and front end bolted up to the engine. I also got the engine started up
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
  

Monday, March 17, 2014

WQ Hans

This week I was finally able to assemble my tractor engine after getting the last of the parts I needed. 
 
Cylinders are honed and how ready for cleaning. All grit must be cleaned from the bores before the pistons can be installed. For this part I washed the cylinders with soapy water and then scrubbed them down with white rags and brake clean till the rags would stay white when rubbed against the cylinder walls. Then I coated each cylinder with oil to prevent flash rust
 
 
To clean the pistons I soaked them in crab cleaner and then used a ring land cleaning tool and a brush to clean out the ring lands
 
Measuring ring end gaps. I used a piston with the old rings still on it to push the new rings one at a time into the cylinder. I pushed the rings on about 1.5", the piston was used to make sure the rings were sitting level in the bore. I then measure the ring end gaps. First compression ring has to have a .015-.030" gap. Second and third rings have to have a .013-.28" gap. The oil ring has to have a .015-.035" gap.
 
Three piece oil control ring installed. The expander ring is installed first and then one ring above and below it.
 
Third compression ring has a beveled edge so that side must be faces up. The first and second rings have no markings or beveled edges so either side can face up.
 
the ring ends must now to positioned in different directions from one another
 
piston rings ready to be installed
 
 
arrows face forward on the main caps
 
 
The dynamic balancer now gets installed after the pistons are in. The alignment mark on the balancer gear tooth must be matched up with that of the one on the crankshaft.
 
now the oil pump gets put back on with a gasket that I had to make myself
 
cylinder head cleaned up and ready to go back on the block. I also checked the head and the deck of the block to make sure they were still within spec of being level.
  
    
 
Cylinder head back on top of the engine block

Tuesday, March 11, 2014

WQ Hans

This week I leaned how to hone cylinder bores. I used a corded drill and a flex hone, making sure to keep the stones on the hone lubricated. You have to move the drill up and down quickly to get the correct cross hatch patter, which is 30-45°. You also have to keep the drill moving in the cylinder bore to prevent vertical scoring, so you have to make sure the drill is spinning when you take the hone out of the cylinder

Tuesday, March 4, 2014

WQ Hans

 This week I learned about rebuilding a Horton fan clutch and I also took some time to read up how this system functions. I also had to locate the kit I wanted for this fan clutch even though I had the part number for what fan clutch it is, so I went on Horton's website and was able to quickly find the part number of what I wanted and info on this fan clutch.
 
This is a Horton HT/S series fan clutch. This unit is normally closed, so it has no air going to the clutch until the solenoid valve is opened by either the thermal switch, manual over ride switch, or the a/c pressure switch. In this case there is no manual over ride switch. This fan clutch is also set up with what is called a system sentry. The sentry is a small torx plug and it is designed so that if the fan clutch gets to hot the center melts out of it to by pass air to unlock the clutch, this is to protect the fan clutch from damage. The system sentry has a melting point of 600 degrees ferenheit. The fan clutch can also be manually locked up by inserting two 5/16" grade eight bolts into two holes on the fan clutch.