SPQ13 Hans

This is something that I have learned that you can use old washing machines/dryers for other than just taking them to the scrap yard. The metal on them is actually really good to use for replacement body panels. In this case I used a washing machine lid to make an interior floor panel that goes next to the dog house on an international dump truck

This is the finished product pop rivited into place. I coated the bottom with high temp paint because it sits right above the exhaust. On the top I used a bed liner spay that comes in a rattle can. The bed liner coating turned out very well and I figured that it would hold up better than paint.

SPQ13 Hans

This week I learned how to set the pressure relief on the Peterbilt. This was actually a very simple thing to do. The pressure relief valve has a set screw on it that you turn in or out to adjust the pressure up or down. Then you just turn the set screw and watch the pressure gauge until you get the desired pressure that you want, in this case it was 2000 psi. Then you tighten down the jam nut on the set screw so it can't move around any and you are done.

This week = 45,  total = 216

SPQ13 Hans

This week I replace the drag link on a 1987 International s2300. This truck probably hasnt had alot of parts replaced on it in its life time because it only has about 150k on it. I was performing an LOF on the truck and checking everything out. After pulling up and down on the drag link I noticed that it had some slop in it and I didn't like how it felt so I decided it was getting replaced

The end connected to the steering arm was the end with the slop in it

Using a little persuasion to get the nuts off. 3/4" ratchet and a cheater bar

Then I had to get the drag link off of the steering arm. This took a little work and it probably would have been easier if I had a hammer a little bigger than a 40 oz ball peen. After I got this end off I had found that the reason for failure was that this end hadn't been greased in a while. The end connected to the pitman arm was still good because it had been getting greased. I would say that this is where the saying grease is cheap, parts arent comes into play.

New drag link installed and cotter pins in place

SPQ13 Hans

This week I disassembled this hydraulic pump to find out what it was and exactly how it works. After I got it apart I wasn't sure at all how it worked. So after locating the model number on the pump I googled it and found out that it was an axial piston pump. It was real interesting to learn how this pump works. The pump has a bend in it so as the gears rotate the pistons inside of it move up and then once then get towards the inner part of the bend they are forced down to create the flow of the hydraulic fluid.

 

this week = 40,  total = 131

SPQ13 Hans

This week I decided that I was gonna take apart a starter because I had never really thought of actually doing that before and I have a couple of old starters laying around. This is actually really simple to do and there is not much to. It is also super easy to replace the brushes in this starter.

This is the starter solenoid. I took the top off of it to try and figure out what happens in it when you turn the key

This is an old power window switch that I took apart to see how it functions inside. It has some copper strips in it with some bends on them and they rock back and forth on the center contacts. It has a very simple operation but it is easy to see how it can get moisture in it and corrode one of the contacts and cause it to fail.

this week = 32,   total = 91

SPQ13 Hans

This week I worked on one of my grandads farm trucks trying to figure out why the passenger side power window wasn't working. I didn't have a multi meter to use so I just used a test light instead to find where I had power at. At first I had decided that it needed a new window motor because it had power going to the motor when you pressed the switch. I should have made sure that it was grounded though and fully understood how the wires going to the switched worked because the motor ended up being fine, so I did the unnecessary work of removing the motor. Once I found out that it still didn't work with a new motor installed I decided to figure out what each wire actually did and also to see what the wires on the drivers side did. One thing that I did already know from working on my own truck is that the drivers side switch has to work for the passenger switch to work, but I didn't actually know why that was. So after I did some testing with my test light I determined that there is no ground wire on the passenger side, it grounds through the drives side using the two wires going from the drivers switch to the passenger switch. Then after I found that there was no power going out of the drivers switch I decided that it must be bad and not providing a ground so I replaced it and that fixed the problem.

The old window motor which ended up still being         This is the wire that goes to the window motor,          good                                                                           they are booth switched power and ground wires     

                                                                        depending on which way you press the switch

This is the passenger side switch, the pink wire is hot all the time and the other four wires are all switched power/ground. Two of them go to the window motor and the other two come from the drivers side switch

This is the drivers side switch, the two closest wires are the switched power/ground wires that go to the passenger switch. The pink wire in the back is power all the time, the black wire behind it is ground all the time and the other two wires go to the drivers window motor

This week = 34,  total = 59

SPQ13

This week I dissasembled a gearbox off of a sawdust blower. The gearbox was making a lot of noise when the pto on the tractor was turned on. As i suspected the bearing had broken apart and pieces of the bearing had gotten in between the two gears.

These are some of the metal pieces and ball bearings that I had foud inside the gear box

This is the pto shaft end. It has two bearings on it to keep it aligned. The inner bearing was the one that had failed and it also showed signs that the bearing had spun on the pto shaft from the excessive wear shown. The other bearings would have also needed to be replaced because they werent spinning as smoothly as they should have but they were no where near as bad as the one that had broken apart.

The gear on the left was the one that came off the pto shaft. It has a bunch of chips in almost all of the teeth. The gear on the right didnt have a bunch of chip taken out of the teeth on it like the other gear did. Just the tooth shown in the picture had the worst of it with a chunk taken out of the one gear tooth.

This gearbox will more than likely just be scap metal now because it has no markings on it to tell who made it. It looks like at minimum it will need two new gears, four bearings, and possibly an new pto shaft end. Since we have a spare gear box the cost trying to find and then getting the new gears is not really worth it.

This week = 25